Denim Pants sew-along, How to make Jeans for Men, DIY Sewing Tutorial, Step by step Explanation


Hi, welcome to my chanel In this tutorial I will show you
how to make these pants I’ve made a jeans pattern
with a comfortable tapered fit it has patched back pockets curvy front pocktets a front fly with buttons and a belt I will show you how to make felled seams and how you don’t need a lining for the pocket bags this video is divided in six chapters
you can find direct links in the section below Requirements
For this project you’ll need: a sewing machine
with a straight stitch and a zig zag stitch
a buttonhole fuction is nice but not crucial a steam iron measuring tape pins
and clips as an option Regular and topstitching Thread some Scotch tape paper scissors and
fabric scissors strong machine needles
and four jeans buttons a soft pencil
and maybe an erasable pen, or chalk a seam ripper a hammer
a pipe wrench and a Nail some fusible interlining for the fabric
i recommend medium weight nonstretchable fabrics for these pants we don’t need a lining
as the pocket bags are made from shell fabric only that makes an easier workmanship and we get a clean finish on the inside prewash to let it shrink
and to wash out the chemicals then let it dry and flat iron your fabric use your own pattern
or download the pattern
offered in the link below these are all pattern pieces we need you will get a left and a right piece
when you fold your fabric in half matching at the selvedge don’t forget to snip all notches
these information are important we’ll be waiting with the waistband
to make alterations possible if your fabric looks similar on both sides
mark the wrong side of each piece now we can start sewing back pockets and yoke take the back part of the paper pattern
and pierce the corners of the back pocket transfer the positions on the back pants
using chalk, an erasable pen, or a soft pencil use the notches
to fold the top edge in place
and press then fold half of the width
and press again topstitch close to the edge and again with a distance of about
10 millimeters or 3/8 of an inch now fold the other pocket edges
and press them in place we don’t need to neaten the edges be careful not to burn your fingers if you like you can add some decorative topstitching
i like it plain and leave it like this im using a little mirror as an underlay
it makes it easier to slide in with the needles place the pocket onto the back
at the marked positions the top edge needs a little ease
this will disappear when you wear your pants later placing a something into the bag
can help to create the extra ease pin the bag witch needles
leaving a distance to the edges before sewing I’m using my screwdriver
to fold the edge underneath I’m starting 1cm from the corner
and topstitch all around close to the edge in the corners I’m lifting the presser foot
to turn the fabric when you’re not sure if the next stitch is
about to go over the edge – use the handwheel and go slow I’m folding the other corner with my screwdriver
and go all the way back to the beginning I’m leaving a distance of about 7 mm
to the previous stitching Now do the same for the other pocket the longer side belongs to the centre back
and the shorter side belongs to the side seam place the yoke onto the back
right side on right side to make sewing easier
the rounding is equal on both sides the seam allowance is 19mm
or 3/4 of an inch if you don’t have the distance on your needle plate use a ruler and place a magnet or stick a
tape part the seam allowances and press
trim at least half of the lower seam allowance fold the longer side over the trimmed edge
meeting up with the stitch line, and press then fold the allowance to the bottom and
press from both sides topstitch close to the edge
and again with a distance hitting the seam allowance underneath bring the yoke seams
on the same level and pin a needle the centre back seam allowance
will be folded to the left side place your pants like this
left leg wrong side up and trim 10mm of the upper seam allowance stretch the allowance in the curve,
fold the longer side over the trimmed edge meeting up at the stitching line
and press fold to the other side and press again the crossing felled seams are
the hardest part for your sewing machine use a hammer to flatten the bulk now double topstitch from the right side coming up next sewing the front pockets take the paper pattern pocket bag piece
pierce the corners of the coin pocket with a seam ripper
and transfer the positions on the fabric this time I’m using a soft pencil
the markings will be gone after the 1st washing use the notches to fold the top edge in place
and press then fold half of the width and press again top stitch the top edge now fold the rest of the pocket edges
the seam allowance is 10mm or 3/8 of an inch the coin pocket top edge also needs a little
ease I’m using my pencil here
pin the bag witch needles leaving a distance to the edges now top stitch the bag onto the front pocket piece because they are so convenient
I always make two coin pockets one for each side place the pocket bag
right side on right side onto the front part and pin the pocket entry the seam allowance is 10mm or 3/8″ go slow in the curve cut the seam allowances in the curve
and press them apart to avoid the bag from being visible later
turn the entry and work the edge there should be an edge of 1mm visible on
the inside press from both sides and double topstitch fold the pocket bag according to the notches
and pin the bottom line wrong sides together topstitch with a distance of 7 mm cut all the loose threads of
turn the pocket bag again and press everything in place topstitch the bottom line again
for a clean finish on both sides the rounding prevents little things
like coins from being stuck in the corner pin the top edge as shown for practical reasons
there is extra ease in the pocket entry without that the pocket would e very uncomfortable stitch top edge and side seam in place
with a small distance of 6mm sewing the front fly interfacings will add some extra strength
to the fabric which will support the buttons and the buttonholes
later I’m using a fusible interfacing
because of the glue the adhesive side is shiny and feels rougher
this side will get in touch with the fabric press without steam then fold in half and press again neaten the fly and the bottom line of the
guard I’m not using my serger here
because I’ve got matching colored yarn that will look good with a zig zag stitch then transfer the buttonhole positions
onto the fly if your machine has an automatic buttonhole
function just drop the button in it’s position always practice before sewing the final buttonholes
use some fabric waste and adjust the stitch length and width
until the outcome is nice also compare the desired position
with the outcome use the CF notch to fold
19 mm to the inside and press cut the allowance at the notch
leaving a distance of 1mm to the fold then double fold and press the allowance to avoid the fly from being visible later
I’m leaving a distance of 2mm to the centre front edge pin the fly in place and use
the fly template to draw the stitch line double topstitch all along
it might be easier to start from the top pin the guard onto the right front
and sew with a distance of 9mm or 3/8 ” secure with a back stitch cut the seam allowance
but be careful not to cut the seam neaten the edge with a zig zag stitch unfold the guard to the front and press place both front parts
right side on right side on top of each other and mark a distance of 19mm or 3/4″ at the lower centre front cut half of the seam allowance away
and stretch the longer side in the curve fold the longer side around
and make sure the edge matches with the seam line stretch, fold again and press turn the pants around
and close the upper front part at the CF notch that is 1cm aside from the guard set everything in place
and pin the centre front this is how we will be sewing
the lower part of the centre front start at the lower part and
make sure that everything in place and flat underneath now topstitch all the way to the fly turn the garment and return to the crotch if you like you can add a bartack
to keep the guard in place inseam and sideseam place the front part
right side on right side onto the back part start at the crotch
and pin the whole inseam in place match up the knee notches
and use as many clips or needles as you need now close the whole inseam cut back half of the front seam allowance fold the back seam allowance around
and make sure to meet up with the stitching line then press all the way be careful with your fingers when using steam now fold once again at the stitching line and iron the whole inseam one more time now we have bulky crossing felled seams again which we will handle with the hammer likebefore double topstitch all the way
and be sure to hit the seam allowance underneath once that is done we can close the side seams place the front part onto the back part
right side on right side match up the knee notches
and pin the whole side seam machinebaste with the longest possible stitch
on your machine for both sides now is the time for the first fitting
and we have the chance to add or reduce width keep in mind that the waistband isn’t attached
yet it might look a little too low you should have a little extra width at the
sides as the side seam allowance is 19mm
we can add up to 4cm in total if necessary add or reduce width at the side
seams waist and hip might need different alterations when you ‘re done
measure the difference at waist twice as much
needs to be altered
at the waistband place the new side seam notch in the middle without alterations
we can go over the previous stitching with a normal stitch length to reduce the bulk
trim the seam allowance to 1cm or 3/8″ then neaten the side seam edges
with a serger or with zig zag stitch we’ll now topstitch the upper part of the
side seam to have a nice and flat look make sure the side seam is folded to the back
and nothing’s in the way turn around at the end of the pocket bag beltloops and waistband for the beltloops
we need a stripe of 24 inches or 61cm in length and 4cm or 1 1/2 inches in width I’m using the selvage for this
because the edge is already neat fold one third of the width and press then fold the other edge around double topstitch all the way the distance is up to you but it is a good idea to hit
all layers underneath cut the fabrc in pieces of 4 inches or 10
cm resulting in six equal belt loops place the belt loops onto the pants as we will turn the loops later the wrong side is visible to have enough space for the belt later
im placing the loops directly on the edge of the pocket entry I like to have two loops in back
avoiding the bulky felled seam in the centre from a logical point of view I would place the side loops on 50% of the distance but that would result in having
baggy, stand away loops in the direct front or back view shifting the positions to the back
solves this problem and we will get a nicer look now we can start with the waistband for the waistband I’m using a 10-45-45-10 triple slotted Interlining but normal fusible interfacings
would work just as good the finished height should be
from one and a half inches to 2 inches or 4 to 5 cm transfer the notch positions
starting at the side with the underlap then fold and press the edge in place turn the pants inside out and
and pin the unfolded waistband edge to the pants
beginning at the underlap start sewing on the pants upper side
so you can see the belt loops leave some space and
begin sewing with a distance of about 2 inches to the centre front stop sewing two inches before you reach the
end and secure with a back stitch now fold the waistband in place as shown this will help avoiding bulk on the right
side draw the edges of the waistband as shown
and close them trim the edges and turn them inside out thanks to the extra space we left
we now can adjust the waistband bringing underlap and overlap to the same
level the underlap top edge should not be visible pin the whole waistband in place
keeping all seam allowances and threads inside doublecheck the CF a last line
and start top stitching the waistband now it’s time for the waistband button hole I tried using the automatic function again
but due of the different fabric layers underneath my machine failed terribly therefore I’m doing this manually
using a small zig zag stitch do a testrun on some fabric waste first
draw a line for the button hole and try to match up with the zigzag stich
around have a look where the needle hits the fabric
first and use the handwheel if necessary start right from your drawn line
and plan enough width for the zipg zag stich and
the space for the button hole itself stop at the end of your line
then do a second row on the left side leaving enough space for the button hole now zigzag the edges
and make sure the length of you buttonhole is a tiny bit wider than your button i personally find this method easier
compared to sewing the button hole in one step turning the garment and estimating the zigzag widths pin needles and cut the holes with a sharp
seam ripper and be extra careful with your fingers here widen the buttonholes a bit
and test if you can push the buttons trough now it’s time for the buttons pin a needle at the centre front
which is 3/8 “or 1 cm left from the guard then draw the button positions
trough the button holes it’s better to use a pencil here
instead of an erasable pen or chalk pierce the positions with a seam ripper
and use a nail to widen them push the back part of your jeans buttons through
the fabric take a pipe wrench and some fabric waste
to apply the buttons set the wrench up like this
and press gently pressing too hard will possibly damage the
buttons fold 3/8 of an inch or 1 centimeter as a seam
allowance and pin the loop positions in place you can sew the loops with a narrow normal
stitch or with a zigzag stitch to get a bartack I’m using a piece of folded denim
to even out the layers under the presser foot hem and belt put your pants on and check the length with the hem allowance they should be one and a quarter inches longer
than desired use a ruler
and draw a line with a distance of 1 1/4 ” or 3 cm
then fold twice and pin the finished hem width is 5/8 ” or 15 mm sewing the hem is easier
when your pants are inside out use your fabric leftovers to make the belt according to the size of your leftovers
u might have to split the length in 2 or 3 pieces the length is your waistband circumference
plus 40 inches or 1 meter draw 2 parallels with a distance of 12 cm
( 4 3/4 inches) cut the belt
and add fusible interlining place the belt pieces
perpendicular right side on right side and draw a 45 degree line topstitch the line
and cut off the excess fabric then press the seam allowances apart the angled seam reduces bulk
and looks nicer than a straight line fold 1 centimeter all around the edges and
press now fold the ends
and close the belt I’m using layers of fabric waste
to even out the presser foot topstitch all along the edges this is how to loosely bind the belt
you can also use a buckle or add a button and a button hole
if you like here you can see the results I’ve made some of these pants already
in different colors they all fit a little different
due to the fabrics and their age you can see how the green one
has creases and looks stiffer but that will change with time
as washing softens everything well and that’s it
I hope my video was helpful let me know if you’re missing something
or if there are other projects that you would like to see
on this channel thanks for watching
and see you next time

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